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Heart of the Beartooths
Heart of the Beartooths Located in south-central Montana and straddling the Wyoming stateline, lies the Beartooth Mountain Range, one of the premier high altitude hiking areas in the nation. If you look at a map of Montana, you'll see the Beartooths are located just north and east of Yellowstone Park and north of the Wyoming line (part of them actually lie in Wyoming) and south of the Yellowstone River. I guess if I had 5 - 7 days to spend backpacking in them, I'd take this hike. Head north on the trail past Lady of the Lake to the Aero Lakes (lower and upper) which is about 6-7 miles up, and I do mean up. From there head east cross country to Rough Lake, Cairn Lake and Medicine Lake before dropping down to Dewey Lake on the popular and well marked East Rosebud trail. On the way over, when you are in the vicinity of Rough Lake take time to explore the Skytop Lakes drainage, just to the north, for great views of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point and an incredible, but stark, basin of high altitude lakes. At Dewey Lake turn south on the East Rosebud trail and head about 12 miles out to the Clark's Fork/Chief Joseph trailhead back on US 212. This will put you about 2 to 3 miles from your beginning point. My suggestion would be to leave your vehicle at the Clark's Fork trailhead exit point and hitchhike to the trailhead at Lady of the Lake. I've never had a problem getting a ride. Just show your pack and people will know you're a backpacker and a lift should come pretty soon. I always find it comforting to have the car at the end of the hike waiting for me when I get out. One important point - the section from the Aeros to Dewey Lake is not on a trail, but since it’s all above tree line, navigation is remarkably easy - there is no forest or brush blocking the view. All you really need is a good map and the ability to read it. A compass helps too, not to mention the ability to use it. But over all, it's pretty hard to get lost if pay attention to where you're going and where you've been. Speaking of maps, I would suggest two, maybe three. The first is a topo published by the forest service of the entire Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness area. It runs about $4.00 and is available from Custer National Forest, P.0. Box 2556, Billings, Mt 59103 or phone (406)446-2103. The second and better of the two is from Rocky Mountain Surveys at P.O. Box 21558, Billings, MT 59104-1558, ph. (406) 656-0366. This is double sided 15 minutes series quad with the Alpine quad on one side and the Cooke City quad on the other. It covers the entire hike and has routes as well as marked trails on it along with relevant fishing information. Also, it’s on tear proof and waterproof paper. It really is excellent. It runs about $8.00. Either map will do, but I think the Rocky Mountain Survey one is well worth the extra bucks. Its so much more detailed. Beartooth Publishing out of Bozeman, MT, 800-838-1058, has recently published a beautiful map of the Absaroka-Beartooth area as well. What I espeically like is that it shows pretty accurate milage between specific points. It's almost a work of art and runs about $12.50. With it's shaded relief and multi colors, it's just a beautiful map. If you can't get the maps by mail, any mountain shop in nearby towns such as Cody, Bozeman, Billings, Red Lodge or Cooke City, will have them available. Sylvan Mountain Shop on Broadway (Main Street) in Red Lodge has about the best local information and there is a forest service ranger station on the south end of Red Lodge on US 212 that may be able to help with info. Sometimes they can, other times they are clueless. Just depends on whose on duty I guess. This hike has everything, wildlife (moutain goats, bighorn sheep, elk, deer, black bear - very occasionally a grizzly will wander up from Yellowstone, but not very often - and all the small rodents such a pikas, marmots, etc.) Great fishing for Brookies, Cutthroats and Rainbows, even an occasional Brown. Waterfalls are everywhere, as are thick forests, deep canyons, Montana's highest peaks, and lots and lots (hundreds, actually) of lakes. Personally, I feel the best hiking and most scenic areas are the above treeline regions. They really are the essence of the Beartooths and unlike just about any other area you'll find in the lower 48 with maybe some smaller areas in Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. A couple words of caution. First, this is extremely high and rugged country - much of it about 9,500 ft - and the weather can be extreme. I've had high winds, cold rain, sleet and lots of snow during every month of the year. Same for sub-freezing temps. Good three season gear is essential. Temperatures down on the plains can be in the high 90s, but daytime temps can be anywhere from in the 80s to low 50s with nights often dropping to the low 40s and even the 20s with intense, but short, thunderstorms nearly every afternoon. I would rate this hike as moderately difficult, with nothing technical involved and no special equipment needed. You should be able to do it in 5 - 7 days at a comfortable and leisurely pace. One of the great things about this hike is just getting there. If you’re coming from the east, you will probably take US 212 through Red Lodge, MT (great little town) on the way to Cooke City, MT. US 212 between Red Lodge and Cooke City is known as the "Beartooth Highway" and is one of the most spectacular roads in the Rockies, maybe in the nation. After numerous switchbacks, you climb to Beartooth Pass at almost 11,000 ft and then drop down toward Yellowstone. Many of the peaks in the area exceed 12,000 and you cross extensive areas of alpine tundra similar to what you will be hiking through. You'll pass through three national forests on the way -Custer, Shoshone and Gallatin. The views are unsurpassed. Personally, I think the only road that comes close in views is Going to the Sun in Glacier National Park. Do a search on Google under Beartooth Mountains and you will find quite a bit of information. Guess that about covers it. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions. It’s a great area. I've recommended it to a lot of folks and no one has ever been disappointed. (except those guys from Texas who had their tent ripped apart by a black bear).
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