Flat Tops Wilderness Area

Hike Name: Flat Tops Wilderness Area Location: north CO Length: 160 Submitted by: Dean Mitchell Date Submitted: 0/0/00 Rating:	more Colorado trail reviews Colorado national parks Colorado state parks
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Description
The Flat Tops occupy about 235,000 acres, much of which contains trails. We spent a week backpacking here and followed the Chinese Wall Trail, down to the Lost Lake Trail, the East Fork Trail, across the Devil's Causeway, walked the Stillwater Trail, the Wall Lake Trail, the Trappers Lake Trail, and the Himes Peak Trail.
There are two fairly distinct types of terrain here, the forested lower elevations with occasional meadows, and the mesa tundra. The lower elevations are mostly the valleys of the escarpment and are about 10,000'-11,000'. It wasn't too windy and there are a lot of lakes to fish in. The mosquitos weren't too bad but we understand they can be. Temperatures in mid-July were 80's/40's. The trails at the lower elevations where easy to follow, due to the heavy horse traffic...on some trails it appeared as if an army had marched through. Camp sites near the lakes where good, watch out for areas were horses had been tethered and had deficated. There is plenty of level ground away from the lakes and finding water was not a problem at this time of year (many streams). Fishing on the north side of the Chinese Wall (a stunning cliff down from the mesa) was good. Our views of the north side the Chinese wall were very nice. Didn't see much wildlife.
We ascended to the mesa via the astonishing Devil's Causeway. The "trail" (really a clump of boulders) narrows to little more than a yard wide and falls off 1500 feet on either side to the valley below. The official topo doesn't draw a trail here and now we know why...its very dangerous. Knowing what I do now I wouldn't attempt a crossing again, especially with a full pack. We crossed the causeway on our hands and knees and kissed the earth when we reached the other side. There are other ways around that are less risky. Its probably a lot easier without a pack and is a popular destination.
Once on the escarpment the views were just incredible. At this time of year the trails cut through fantastic golden (and other color) meadows of wildflowers. There were tens of beautiful alpine lakes which were deep blue, the meadows deep green, the sky deep blue, and the wildflowers where all over. One of the the most stunning places we've seen. We also saw marmot, pika, several elk heards, a few deer, some bear sign, and listened to coyotes. It was very windy though with temperatures 60's/30's. We didn't experience any thunderstorms but you need to be off the top or under cover when they roll through in the afternoon. The trails on top were again well marked by horses. Often the trails are deep ruts created by horses and are just slightly too narrow for a person to walk in without tripping up. We pretty much had to put away our trekking poles up here and it was kind of annoying. Many of the lakes on top are at least partially surrounded by trees with suitable camping spots. Some lakes are more sheltered than others. On top is where this area really shines for views and overall beauty.
The Trappers Lake Lodge, next to Trappers Lake, caters to folks staying at the rustic cabins. However its a great place for backpackers to get a hot meal (ie not trail food) in the restaurant or take a $5 shower (they supply the soap and towel), or stock up on some forgotten item (for a steep price). There is a forest service camp ground here also. Nice folks run the lodge and restaurant. You'll run into many more people in and around Trappers Lake. Otherwise we saw one of two folks at each lake we camped near.
Overall a wonderful experience, and we plan to go back and explore more of the southern/western part of the wilderness.

Directions to Hike
From Denver - I-70 West to about Glenwood Springs, then north. Exact directions depend on your entry point. Stillwater Reservoir is popular as its on the east side of the area and closer to Denver. All the trailheads we saw had plenty of parking. Northern approach from Steamboat Springs was mostly dirt roads.

Contact Information
Blanco Ranger District, White River NF, Meeker, CO. 303-878-4039
Trappers Lake Lodge and Resort. 970-878-3336.

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